Liquid Glass Deep Pour 24 Hour Cure Epoxy 2:1 – Up to 1″ Thick

Liquid Glass 24 Hour Casting Epoxy

 

Superclear’s 2:1 ratio, Liquid Glass Deep Pour 24 casting epoxy, offers unparalleled clarity. Design and formulated for small to small/medium casting, and perfected for a short cure time, reducing your production time by 2 whole days! Manufactured with the highest quality raw materials, this product is quite literally the best on the market. While it can be used for small projects, this product shines on large, deep pours, and with a high barcole rating, you can be sure the structural integrity is there! Just watch the video below!

$109.99$179.99

Our Liquid Glass Deep Pour 24 Epoxy is absolutely unparalleled with a deep pour capability of 1 inch and gives you unmatched industry performance; quick cure time, convenience by eliminating 75% of your work, cutting your production time by 2 days! with the clearest finish you can get on the market today! Pour up to 1″, max volume per pour is 2 quarts, and it cures in about 24 hours!

  1. HIGHEST EPOXY RESIN UV PROTECTION! Our SuperClear Liquid Glass Deep Pour 24 Thick Pour Has The Highest UV Yellowing Resistance Out Of All Competitor’s!
  2. HIGHEST PERFORMANCE LEVEL! SuperClear 2.0 Is Considered The Best Epoxy Resin For Wood, Charcuterie Boards, Small Castings, Tabletops & ALL Epoxy Ideas!
  3. EXCELLENT FOR Colored Epoxy Resin Wood Filler Applications, Or As A Clear Epoxy Resin Wood Filler & Filling Large Voids In Wood With Epoxy POURING UP TO 1” PLUS!
  4. WORKS AMAZINGLY With Metallic Epoxy Pigment! Mixes Flawlessly With Epoxy Resin Color Pigments, Mica Powders Like Black Diamond Pigments & Creates A Superb Colored Epoxy For Wood!

We Are the Original Manufacturer, and We’ve Been in this Business for over 60 years! SUPERCLEAR 2.0 IS MADE IN THE USA! ODOR FREE! ZERO VOC’s!

Pro Tips

Some things to always keep in mind, whether you are new or are a seasoned pro!

  1. If you’re new to epoxy, try mixing and pouring in smaller batches until you’re comfortable to move onto bigger pours.
  2. Use a fan to help with airflow, and reduce the heat caused by the exothermic reaction.
  3. Elevate your mold off of your main surface (i.e. table) to allow airflow to assist in dissipating heat from the exothermic reaction.
  4. Imprecise mixing and measuring are the most common reason for poor results. After Mixing, when pouring, do not scrape the sides. This can include unmixed epoxy into your project
    that can have negative effects.
  5. Keep in mind, the greater the volume used and/or the thicker your pour, the cooler the ambient temperature will need to be. Our temperature range of 70-84F is just a guide. volume and depth dictate the environmental temperature restraints.
  6. Use a fan to help with airflow, and reduce the heat caused by the exothermic reaction.

Step by Step Liquid Glass Instructions

 

This is our typical instructions for our products. We understand everyone’s environment, project and applications may be different. if you have questions, don’t hesitate to call us at 888-849-0588. We would love to go over your project with you, and if you don’t get us on the phone (we are probably on the other line), send us an email here.

STEP 1:
Determine the amount of epoxy you will need for your project. Be sure to order SuperClear Table Top Epoxy for a seal coat for substrates to ensure best results!

STEP 2:
Ensure your working environment is clean, dry and at least 70 degrees for best results. Lay down plastic sheeting below your project for a safe, easy cleanup. Make sure your surface is completely level, as the epoxy will self-level.

STEP 3:
Seal Coat: If working with wood or any substrate added to the casting, be sure to clean the surface with Isopropyl Alcohol 90% + and apply your sealcoat with a brush, following all mixing directions for that product. Let it get tacky before pouring your deep pour. If the seal layer is fully cured, for best results, lightly sand the surface with 320 grit sandpaper and clean with Isopropyl Alcohol 90% +, and then pour the epoxy.

STEP 4:
Mixing Deep Pour 24: Measure 2 parts Resin to 1 part Activator and pour into a clean, dry bucket or cup. Stir the mixture for at least 6 minutes with a stir stick. Be sure to scrape the sides and bottom to ensure all of your epoxy is properly mixed.

STEP 5:
Transfer contents to a new, clean, dry bucket or cup and continue mixing for 3 more minutes to ensure proper mixing, again scraping sides and bottom.

STEP 6:
Pour mixture directly into your mold at your desired depth, without scraping the sides. Up to 1” deep, at no more than 2 quarts volume per pour. However, greater depths can be reached by reducing your pour volume.

STEP 7:
Use a heat source, like a heat gun, to remove any surface air bubbles. Do not try to “work” bubbles out. This will actually cause more bubbles by heating the epoxy. Start at 6” minimum above the surface and sweep back and forth until no bubbles remain. Do not leave the heat gun over the surface too long, as to prevent surface distortions and overheating.

STEP 8:
Allow the surface to cure, up to 24 hours in a dust-free environment. The epoxy will start to get tacky between 8-12 hours but do not disturb for at least 24 hours to ensure a proper cure. If temperature is too cool, it may take longer to cure.

 

Liquid Glass FAQ’s

HOW LONG DO I HAVE TO MIX IT?

You need to stir it by hand for a minimum of 6 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom thoroughly throughout while mixing. When pouring, we do not recommend scraping the sides. Doing so can risk mixing in unmixed, unincorporated epoxy into your pour, thus creating curing issues.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO CURE?

The product will begin to harden within the first 8-12 hours in ideal conditions, but takes around 24 hours to completely cure. This is dependent upon conditions like constant temperature, humidity, mass and airflow.

CAN I MIX PIGMENT/DYE/MICA POWDER?

You can mix nearly all alcohol dyes, mica powders, and liquid pigments with our product, not to exceed 12%. However, we do not recommend acrylic based colorants as they can negatively react with the epoxy.

CAN I ADD ANOTHER LAYER TO THE SURFACE?

Yes! Simply wait until the pour is tacky and nearly hard and pour your next layer. If the product is already hard, lightly sand with 240 grit sandpaper and wipe it down with Isopropyl Alcohol 90% or higher before adding additional layers, which helps with the adhesion between the two layers.

CAN I APPLY IT OVER WOOD, CONCRETE AND COUNTERTOPS?

Absolutely! With any surface, you want to ensure the surface is clean and dry before applying. As always, we recommend a seal coat before applying thicker coats.

DO YOU NEED TO APPLY A SEAL COAT?

We highly recommend a seal coat, which is a very thin coat of Superclear applied to the surface to prevent air bubbles and any residual moisture from the substrate getting into your thick pour. Make sure that the pour surface on your substrate is properly sealed. You can use our SuperClear Table Top Epoxy to easily seal by applying with a paint brush.

IT’S COLD AND THE EPOXY IS REALLY THICK, WHAT DO I DO?

Under 65 degrees, our epoxy may start to thicken up. You may even see some crystallization. Don’t worry, the epoxy is perfectly fine! Before mixing, bring a pot of water up to a steady 75-80 degrees, and then put each bottle of epoxy in there until they come up to temp between 75-80 per bottle. Do not mix first and then bring up to temp. Once the epoxy is up to temp, you can now begin the mixing process.

HOW THICK CAN I POUR IT?

You can pour up to 1” thick per pour, depending on ambient temperature and total mass. Much thicker than most competitors! The mass for a 1” pour varies depending on temperatures and conditions. If you have never poured a deep pour at 1”, we suggest you try it on a smaller scale to understand how it will cure in your particular environment.

HOW CLEAR IS YOUR EPOXY?

Our epoxies are the clearest Epoxy on the market with breathtaking clarity and long lasting beauty. CAN I USE THIS ON TOP OF AN OIL BASED STAIN? No, epoxy will not adhere to oil based stains.

WHAT IF I CHIP THE EPOXY?

Not a problem. This is easily fixed by rough sanding the area, clean the area with isopropyl alcohol, and then repour more of our epoxy. Let that cure. Sand down to desired surface, and then buff to your desired shine.

CAN I PAINT OVER THE EPOXY?

Yes, once it is completely cured, you can paint over the top of it.

WHAT ARE THE IDEAL AMBIENT TEMPERATURES WHEN WORKING WITH THIS EPOXY?

The ideal ambient temperatures are between 70-84F. This temperature varies due to each application being different. A good rule of thumb is that the more volume you are pouring, the lower the temperature should be.

Reviews

  1. Charlie Norris

    “I love fiberglass coatings. They have great products and excellent advice. I'm trying to open a boat repair shop in St . Mary's, GA and my supply WILL come from fiberglass coatings. When I lived in the Fl. Keys for 36 years and worked for a towing and salvage Co for 15 years all our supplies came from Fiberglass coatings. Great service and never were disappointed. Keep up the great job everyone.”
  2. Brian Lewis

    “The staff are very knowledgeable and friendly Have always gotten the right stuff for the right job. Pat,mark,Colby,Ryan your the best. Pat is the walking encyclopedia of FGCI.”
  3. Justin Lammers

    “Been working on a skiff project and using all FGCI products. They came highly recommended by my friends who are boat builders. It is the highest quality resins, glass, and gelcoat for the money. They made it really easy for a newer person to boat building. The customer service is phenomenal and they are always knowledgeable and ready to help with any questions I had.”